The next morning we left early to visit Saqqara. We stopped at an excavation in the ancient city of Memphis where we saw a colossal Ramses II that was lying down... he wasn't supposed to lie down, that isn't very regal.. but he had fallen over. That isn't very regal either, come to think if it.
On the way from Cairo we passed many small villages and it was fascinating to see the people going about their lives. If you ignore the occasional plastic barrel and carts with rubber car wheels, and the traffic on the highway... you would think you were in Biblical times. People live in small square homes made from mud, and work the fields using ancient hand implements. Little itty-bitty donkeys carry immense loads... the loads that cover the entire donkey except for the feet.
Saqqara is the necropolis of the Old Kingdom that ruled from Memphis beginning about 3100 BC. Here we visited a large tomb of a noble and relative of Teti I (or so we were told), Ka-em-heset, who was the Vazir. The paintings and decorations were of this tomb are wonderful. I just can't believe that I am actually seeing this! This particular tomb had about 30 rooms, so you can see that these Egyptians planned to really live it up in the afterlife.
Here also we were allowed to go into one of the very early pyramids.. the tomb of Teti I himself,the first king of the 6th Dynasty. You had to descend a long, long sloping corridor to the center of the pyramid. You could not stand up, but it was just the right size to slide a large sarcophagus through... then into another long, bend-over corridor that was level.
Then you find yourself in the antechamber. The tomb was to the right...with original paint still on the ceiling and part of the walls. It looked to me like this was the tomb that was copied for the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum in San Jose, CA. There was a small storage room was on the the left. This tiny room had a "crawl-through" door. Imagine these places just stuffed with treasure.
In the anteroom was a guide... who asked if we knew why we could not stand up in the corridors... but had to bend... he said it was so every person entering would bow and pay homage to the Pharaoh. Pffft! I don't think so. Nevertheless, it was an exciting thing to be deep in a pyramid.. albeit a lesser one.
Cuz: I found this to be too claustrophobic...I'm not "short" like Gypsy so opted out for sitting in the blazing desert sun watching the TP scratching themselves... much more fun than an old tomb!
In this same area, we visited the Step Pyramid of King Zoser of the 3rd Dynasty... possibly oldest of Egypt's pyramids, dating from 2600 BC. We couldn't see inside, but we enjoyed a beautful restored colonnaded temple at the entrance.
From this area, we could see the Bent Pyramid of Dahshur, however we did not visit it.
The next great thing we were scheduled to see was Giza with all it's famous treasures. The most interesting thing, I thought, was the solar boat. This was recently discovered, in 1950, and is reconstructed in a nice building at the foot of the Great Pyramid of Cheops (Khafre), 2600 BC.
Other Solar Boats have been found and are in the process of reconstruction. I enjoyed seeing this more than the pyramids themselves. The pyramids seemed rather ordinary, somehow. I was prepared to to totally overwhealmed by the sight.. but it just didn't happen. I guess I had that feeling at breakfast.. and wouldn't have it again. But that solar boat, now.. that was something. A real barge that Pharaoh rode on the Nile.. that was great.
Cuz: In fact, they believe that there are at least seven of these solar boat around the pyramids. As our guide said, a lot were dug up and used for firewood shortly after they were placed in the ground.
Next we saw the Sphinx. Built about 4.500 years ago, the head is thought to represent the Pharaoh Khafre But to really see it, you had to be on the causeway next to it. To get onto the causeway, you had to pass through a reconstructed temple that had about two million people in it... all trying to get through one little, narrow door which opened into a narrow stone stairway to the causeway.
Gypsy was one of the few in our group that got sucked into the crowd... and then there was no turning back...we were packed too tight... one couldn't even turn around, let alone turn back... "Oh, the humanity!" I managed to get to the great view of the Sphinx and took lots of pictures just to prove I survived the mob. The Sphinx was called Abu al Hol, which in Arabic means "Father of Terror". I guess the Arabs of old times had prophetic visions of that crowd scene! Cuz, on the other hand, had an adventure of her own.
Cuz: While Gypsy was fighting her way through the hordes, I opted to head for the nearest exit. All these unwashed bodies in the desert heat were getting to me! Suddenly I found myself pushed by some obnoxious foreigner against a railing surrounding a well...long dry... I politely asked "stop pushing me", he looked like I had three heads and six eyes, so figuring he didn't know what I was saying I yelled louder... so much for Maine mentality... When this didn't work I went into instant "defense" mode. Next thing I knew he was writhing in pain, because his testicles were up where his tonsils should be. I was then grabbed by someone who spoke English and was shoved through the crowd. I think I was screaming, but maybe it was sirens! Upon exiting, he asked if I was OK, but the minute I started to turn he vanished. Wonder why! I stood there trying to get my breath when all of a sudden the tourist police on their mighty camels came galloping up and blowing their whistles. Since I figured they were after me (it's all about me, by the way) I disappeared into the throng. Come to find out they wanted the tourists to leave the Sphinx area so they could close and get home for a good scratch! I hung around long enough to see Gypsy come popping out of the crowd, then with a great sigh of relief, headed to the bus. I wonder if that tourist is still there, doubled over.....He won't be fathering any children that's for sure!
Up the next morning at 4am. An early breakfast and we are on our way back to the Cairo airport. We board a flight to Luxor.. a short hop. Modern day Luxor is built on the site of the ancient 4,000-year old city of Thebes which served as the capitol of Egypt for over 1500 years, the glory days.
From the airport in Luxor we went directly to Karnak temple. Karnak was built by a succession of rulers beginning in the 12th Dynasty. It was redesigned and expanded for the next 1,500 years. It was originally called Ipet-Isut, meaning The Most Perfect of Places. Ok. I am impressed this time. This is something! The Hypostyle Hall has left me reeling.. 134 immense, gigantic, gargantuan columns.. all beautifully decorated.. as was ever other inch of Karnak. I loved them. Even with the large crowd that was present, the temple complex is so huge that we all had room to explore... and ogle. And we did.
Our room at The New Winter Palace is very nice with a balcony overlooking the bustle of the street and the traffic on the Nile. If we lean over our balcony railing, we can see Luxor Temple next door. Ok, now we have seen the view.. so we go in search of something to do. We end up wandering the shops along the street.. and watching the different shaped tourists in the hotel pool.. and the horny pigeons in the hotel aviary.
In the evening we went to Luxor Temple, built by New Kingdom Pharoah Amenophis II, to see it illuminated.. and it looks a lot different than it does in the daylight. Altogether wonderful and truly magical.
The following day finds us ready to visit a local school. This was a private Catholic school which also is the home for about 25 orphans. The school gives both Catholic and Islamic religious instruction and is attended by children of both faiths. It was a surprisingly interesting stop.
Then it was a short drive to the Luxor Museum. A new museum that beautifully exhibited its artifacts. This was a wonderful way to wile away the time.. the art is beautiful.
It was here at the Luxor Museum that I noticed the TPs had gone outside the front door.. probably for a smoke.. and had left their little Uzis right there on a table in the entry-way where anyone could pick them up. You can see why I hope these things are not loaded!
Now we have another free afternoon with nothing to do. I guess it is the same old shops again. I don't want to watch the pigeons any more.. and it is too hot to sit on the balcony in the blistering sun and watch the street. Ok.. let's do the shops again. I have read that there is a great market in Luxor... but we have no clue where it is or if it is a safe place to be.
On one of our many shopping trips along the street, we notice a real live scarab crawling along in the gutter. Gypsy is highly impressed and gives it close examination. Isn't this sad... once an important Egyptian spiritual symbol reduced to walking in the gutter. I feel there is a philosophical nugget in this somewhere; but I choose not the dwell on it.
In the evening we were scheduled to see the Sound and Light Show at Karnak. We had no idea what to expect. The sound portion of the show was rather dull... but the lighting was so dramatic! Half the program took place as we walked through the great halls of Karnak... and for the second half the show we were in bleacher seating by the Sacred Lake... and that part of the program was way too long for someone with ADD.
