Poverty Point... that was the next stop. A huge site of semi-circular mounds and a huge bird shaped ceremonial hill. The mounds had been much reduced by farming the area, but this was still an interesting stop. The exact nature and extent of the site was only discovered when viewed on an aerial photograph in the 1950s. The date of the site was determined to be 1500 BC... experts can only speculate about the civilzation that once thrived here.

We next headed for Newellton to see The Winter Quarters. We got somewhat lost along the way. The only fault I could find with the state of Louisiana is that secondary roads are poorly marked, if they are marked at all. Often as not, Gypsy had to navigate by the sun. We arrived here barely in time to get a quickie tour. But the house was great... the guide was a delight, and it was a gorgeous afternoon. We needed this time to recoup from our Coca Cola adventure. We strolled around the grounds after the tour, and enjoyed the peaceful late afternoon. Then we to made the drive to Tallulah to spend the night.

Good morning, Mississippi! Good to see you again!

We traveled to Greenwood and it was nice to get away from the flatness of Louisiana and see hills and trees and things that looked more normal to us.

Gypsy and Cuz had both been pretty quiet about their Coca Cola experience... both stewing and processing it in their own way. On the long road to Greenwood... the subject came up. And it stayed up for a long, long time. We started comparing our thoughts and reactions... then started fantasizing about all the come-backs we could have/should have made. We got laughing so hard and long that it was a wonder we ever made it to Greenwood at all. The lowest point in our trip suddenly turned into the absolute hilarious high point!

In Greenwood, we saw Florewood. Another living history museum. The plantation house was lovely and the out buildings were there so that we could see the workings of an old plantation.

Cuz: At the plantation house, we got to see the bedroom set of Gen. Nathan Bedford Forrest - Civil War Hero and founder of the KKK. I wanted to see if the sheets had eye-holes in them, but figured I would demure as there were a lot of black people on tour.

While we were in the potter's cabin, the potter made a jug for us. Well... he showed us how a jug was made.. he certainly didn't give it to us. Here at Florewood, we were supposed to be able to pick cotton... but it had already been harvested. Here is Gypsy searching for her root and no cotton!

In Jackson, we stopped at a Waffle House for our annual fix of Scattered, Smothered, 'n Covered with a side of sausage. It was greasy and it was great, just like we remembered it. And the bill was only $4.30. You can't beat these prices in the south!

Cuz: We left in rather a rush and Gypsy instructed me I was to stop for NOTHING, not even to tie my shoe, so I hobbled to the car all the while we were praying the waitress wouldn't discover her mistake. We now refer to this as "Two-fer Night at the Waffle House"

Morning found us with just a short drive to Vicksburg where we planned to see the Vicksburg Military Park. Oh dear... the park had a nice driving tour... if you like plaques. Even Cuz wasn't up to all these.

Eventually, we found our way to the USS Cairo and Museum. It is the ironclad Civil War gunboat that had been raised from the bottom of the Mississippi River and put on display along with the many artifacts it contained. This was a lot more interesting than the plaques and monuments. Gypsy is grateful.

So much for plaques and cannons... let's see some houses. So we got tickets for the Vicksburg Fall Pilgrimage Tour for that afternoon.

First we visited Cedar Grove. Oh... This was really something. Very ostentacious though. We couldn't help but marvel at it all. All these places seem to be B&Bs and this one is really off the scale of elegance.

Next door to Cedar Grove is a home built by the same people for one of their children. It is called The Corners, a home done in riverboat gothic. Now, this was a comfortable and beautiful house. The delightful family who ran this B&B did a magnificent job of restoring and furnishing it. We were so impressed, that Cuz asked how much it costs to stay here. Well.. one thing led to another and 15 minutes later we were booked into a room for the night.

A couple blocks away is Annabelle... another home by the Cedar Grove people for yet another child. This was a sweet little place... and we enjoyed seeing it.

This Fall Pilgrimage has been a great one. It always pays to bring along your Voodoo doll.

Obviously being masochistic, this afternoon we decide to visit the Beidenharn Drug Store Museum in Vicksburg.... original bottling site of... well... you know. Now get this... we have to pay about $3 each to get into this place... and it was a just a big rip-off, what a surprise... old junk, it looks like to Gypsy. Then they have the nerve to charge you $.95 for a Coke if you wanted one. Gypsy is ready to boycott Coke... her favorite soft drink! Cuz's favorite is Dr. Pepper... also made by Coca Cola, wouldn't you know.

We decided to go the the market... Sack & Save... and get some wine coolers to enjoy on our verandah while we celebrate our very first B&B experience. We were having a great time... the tourists were gone by then and we went from place to place in this fabulous home.. trying to enjoy it all.

This evening Cuz wanted to enjoy the Jacuzzi in our room... she said it would be good for her old achey breaky bones. I am sure that this will surprise you... but Gypsy has never been in a Jacuzzi. So later she tried it, but wasn't in the least impressed. In fact she had to force herself to stay in it a decent time and not to hop immediately out!

We ended the evening with our Margarita coolers and Mexican dinners on our verandah watching the sun go down. What a treat. We could definately get used to this. Well... not the Jacuzzi...but the rest of it.

Gypsy opts to sleep in a delightful little downy daybed and leaves the gorgeous, rock-hard, big old four-poster for Cuz's enjoyment.

This has to be one of the most interesting nights we have ever spent anywhere. Let me tell you that there are no "Disappearing Railroad Blues" sung in Vicksburg! The railroad is alive and well. All the trains must be waiting on sidings during the day so that they can go through Vicksburg at night... on a track that is almost spittin' distance from our room. No sooner did one train hoot and hoot... rumble the engine past...then the endless clatter-clatter of freight cars... than the next one came through. This stay has been an adventure in many, many ways.

Cuz: Cuz is all alone in this HUGE four poster bed. During the night I woke up after having dreamed that Gypsy was trying to smother me....only to find the down comforter over my face. It was horrible! I thought she was "flashing back" to the Biedenharn House and I was "Ms. Snotty". Has anyone ever tried to get out of one of these beds to use the facilities? I am tall....but I was literally on a diagonal slant before I could even put my toes on the floor. God, I am glad Gypsy was sleeping through this Olympic Event! Having done my duties, I then LEAPT (no pole vaulter has anything on me) into this bed....thank goodness the springs hold! After listening to about 45 more trains go through, it is GOOD MORNING AMERICA, HOW ARE YA?

Breakfast in the dining room is wonderful. What a luxurious thing to do! Orange juice in champaign flutes, fresh hot coffee, fabulous table settings with silver and candles. And Eggs Benedict. I know you all think that Gypsy is a pretty sophisticated woman.. having traveled the world and all.. but this was her first time ever for Eggs Benedict... Gypsy has to be honest with you.

Cuz: Isn't this a real sad story, folks? Kind of reminds you of the song..."Don't get around much anymore....". Now, I grew up in a small town in Maine and I have had Eggs Benedict....Come on!

But I never order them because there is too much fat and cholesterol in the Hollandaise Sauce.

After about an hour's chat with our host, Mr. Cliff, we head off down the Trace to Natchez.