GALAPAGOS, 2007

VOYAGE OF THE DAMNED!!!

We arrived at our hotel in Quito expecting a warm welcome from our fellow travelers, because we arrived a day later than everyone.   We were a group of 14, all of whom were friends of my sister/brother-in-law.   Well, we searched and searched and nary a soul was there to meet us.   Harumph . . . nice greeting.   When we checked in we were given a note from Beverly saying these wimps went to bed because we had to be up so early for our flight to the Galapagos.   At least she also included a cute cow she bought for me which helped soothe our deep, deep hurt.   We found out that, while in Quito, Mark was the victim of a scam and his backpack was stolen.   Also, when we got our luggage, I saw that my beautiful new, red suitcase had a tear near the zipper and the zipper and my good lock were broken.

We arrived in Baltra and, after a while, were transported to a skiff which took us to our boat, the Sagitta and we were on our way to our first island, North Seymour.   When we boarded, Larry was told that when they were loading the baggage into the skiff, his camera fell out of the bag into the water and was probably ruined.

The terrain was very rocky and, in spite of our walking sticks, Beverly took a fall resulting in a sprained ankle and torn ligaments (the boat accommodates 16 and, the one couple that wasn't part of our group, was a doctor and nurse.   Happily, they fit right in and were part of the "family" immediately).   Being the trooper she is, she didn't let a little sprain keep her from doing anything she wished to do.   Along the way we saw lots of land/marine iguanas, sea lions, horny blue footed boobies and frigate birds, etc.   The marine iguanas are the only amphibious iguanas in the world and adapted to this behavior to survive.   This is what makes the Galapagos so unique and how Darwin came up with his theory of evolution.   Each island has different wildlife (with the exception of the sea lions and iguanas which you pretty much see everywhere).   Finches have adapted to the environment and food source on their particular island.   Their beaks will be stronger if they feed on hard nuts, etc.   Some encounters with baby sea lions made this day very memorable.

This morning we arrived at Santa Cruz which is the only island where tourists are allowed to stay, shop, eat, etc. and also where the Darwin Research Facility is.   Several islands have inhabitants but the villages are very small and unseen by visitors.   Sadly, goats, cats, etc. were introduced which interfered with the endemic species and had to be eliminated.

I awakened with a bad sore throat which stayed with me for several days.   I promised everyone that I would totally lose my voice but, sadly for everyone, this didn't happen.   I did come down with a bad cold and I'm still not over it, over two weeks later.   Being the trooper I am, it didn't keep me from doing anything I wanted to do.

We went to the highlands in the morning and took a beautiful walk.   This was one of the only places we saw lush green grass and trees.   We came upon a group of horses and horselets as well as a herd of cows (which I promptly blessed, being the high priestess of all cowdom).   This is the area where the giant tortoises are in the wild and we saw over a dozen lumbering along the landscape.   Because the animals have never been hunted or threatened, they have no fear of humans and you can walk right up to them - in fact, we had to walk around them all the time.   It's amazing how tame they are but you are not allowed to touch them and you must stay on the designated paths to insure you don't step on eggs or nests.

Later in the day we went to the Darwin Research Station where we saw how Ecuador is trying to keep the islands unspoiled and their efforts to maintain the endangered species.   Afterwards we had time to shop until it was time to board Sagitta.   Later in the day we took a panga ride and saw more birds as well as a masked boobie.   We had to eat at restaurants today because our chef was sick.

The next morning we were at Española at Gardner Bay where we took a long walk along a beautiful beach, having to walk around all the sea lions and their babies.   Because we were walking in the water, my feeties got very badly sunburned but, being the trooper I am, it didn't keep me from anything I wanted to do.   Later in the day, those interested headed to the beach to snorkel.   I believe it was here that Kathy's short lens decided it didn't want to work.

We went to Black Turtle Cove where we had some awesome views from a cliff of sea-turtles and even rays and sharks.   Afterwards, the captain hoisted the sails   Because we had been to the Galapagos before, Beverly, Jason, Dave and I didn't partake in some of the activities, but only those that were with us will know the difference, so just ignore my previous statement.

The next day we arrived at Floreana where most went on a morning hike and, in the afternoon went to Post Office Bay.   This is where the British whalers installed a post office barrel in the 1800's.   Visitors bring post cards addressed to people they know (or themselves) and you look through them and, if there are any from your area, you take them and, when you get home, mail them.   I think it was here that Judy had camera problems and thinks she lost all of the kazillion photos she had taken.

The sun rose on the largest island, Isabela where we went for a hike on the forbidding lavascape.   In the middle of the black landscape was a green oasis in which was a herd of pink ducks and moorhens.   It was a beautiful and unexpected treat.   We also saw yellow warblers and American oystercatchers (Dave's favorite bird).   That afternoon we took a zodiac ride where we saw pelicans, a great blue heron and the ubiquitous sea lions, iguanas, blue footed boobies.   We also saw many Galapagos penguins.   This is also the spot where my camera battery decided to die.   My heroine, Barb, suggested I take it out and replace it, which worked, enabling me to get several good shots of the birds.   When I put the battery on the charger, it indicated that it was fully charged . . ?????

The next day we're still on Isabela but on the northern part and we took a walk at Urbina Bay where we came upon several tortoises and huge land iguanas.   That afternoon we were on Fernandina at Punta Espinoza, another forbidding lavascape (and it was really, really hot).   We saw many iguana but, the highlight was the flightless cormorant.   Because the birds had no reason to fly to get food, their wings became stunted and they just fly in the water to catch their fish.   They won't be found anywhere else in the world.   I believe it was here that we found out Mark's watch no longer worked.

Day 7 brings us to Santiago where we took another walk to see the Galapagos fur seals, which are actually sea lions.   This is the only island you will find them.   We also got a good view of a Galapagos hawk.   Later this morning some went snorkeling off the beach.

This afternoon we arrived at Bartolomé where most went to Pinnacle Rock (we didn't go because we've done it and it's a difficult climb).   I think this was where Mark's camera died.

Being our last night, the crew set a beautiful table and even went diving for lobsters for us.   They were yummy.

Our last morning - we went for an early panga ride to Turtle Cove, a mangrove swamp to see more sea- turtles.   Of course, it started to rain and we had a damp ride back to Sagitta.   It was here that Steve's camera decided to meet its demise.   We then sailed back to Baltra where, at the airport, Kathy and Steve's luggage had to be taped because they were damaged.   Luckily, they had time in Quito to buy new ones.   Beverly's camera indicated that she didn't have any pictures.   On the last day in Quito, Dave got sick.

When six of us were at the luggage claim in Miami, there were all kinds of announcements about the flight from Quito . . . it seems we were the lucky ones that had to have all passengers screened in customs.    . . . the lines were around the corner and we must have been in line for an hour.   We got lots of attention from the drug sniffing dog (and had some nice conversations with his handler).

So, let's summarize why this was "The Voyage of the Damned" . . . My suitcase was damaged, our chef got sick, Mark was robbed, Larry's camera went for a swim, Beverly sprained her ankle, I got sick, I badly sunburned my feeties, Judy's camera had problems, Kathy's lens died, Mark's camera didn't work, my battery stopped functioning, Mark's watch had a blank expression on its face, Steve's camera died, Beverly's pictures disappeared, Kathy's luggage was damaged, Steve's luggage was damaged, Dave got sick, we were in customs' hell in Miami.   Five of the seven families had problems of one kind or another.   All this can be blamed on my camera (which was one of the few that, other than the battery, had no problems) which, as I have said since the day I got it, that it is cursed.   I rest my case.