We then went to see all the different manners being tried to keep the tower from leaning further. There were guy wires wrapped around the structure and huge concrete weights at the base. Hopefully these will arrest the tilt (which began when the third story was started in 1100) and save this beautiful bell tower. Our intrepid leader, Lisa treated us to some biscotti (or however you spell it), a sweet almond thingy and some vin santo (a sweet wine) into which we dipped the biscotti. Sounds yucky but it was really good. We staggered to our vans and wended our way to our first destination, the medieval walled village of Volterra.
We met for dinner which was probably 27 courses which introduced us to the wonderful Tuscan cuisine. There were small samples of so many dishes I can't remember them all but each and every one was wonderful (including wild boar!!!). The next day we toured the village which has been inhabited since Neolithic times. One of the highlights was the Etruscan gate - an arch that has been standing before the Romans came to power and is one of only two remaining in the world. Remarkably, it was built without mortar. The U.S. liberated Volterra in WWII and outside the gate is a plaque commemorating this. We also saw the Roman theater ruins which were uncovered when excavation was started for a swimming pool. There are so many ruins in Volterra, it's difficult to start any construction project because they will be shut down so the ancient artifacts will be saved. The next morning we set off on our first hike through country roads, forests, etc. On the way we came to Castel Vecchio (old castle) which was started in the 10th century and abandoned in the 12th. This was a fortified village and was surrounded by a moat. It is now in ruins but gives a feeling of what life must have been in medieval times. After walking over 10 miles - 10 hilly miles - 10 difficult miles (huff, puff, gasp, pant) - did I mention how hard this hike was - we rode to San Gimignano, the most perfectly preserved hilltown in Italy. There were once 72 towers dating to the 12th to 14th century (14 of which still stand) that were built by competitive noble families, none of which could be taller than that of the ruling family. Throughout this beautiful village you can see ancient frescoes and building that have stood for centuries. We happened to be there on market day which gave us a glimpse of how people in this part of Italy shop. The vendors go from village to village in their vans which have canopies that fold out and house all their wares. You can buy anything from kitchen gadget to fully cooked meals. There was fresh fish, meat, beautiful vegetables, clothes (I bought a tee shirt), toys, over-the-counter drugs, everything. At the end of the day the vendors pack up, fold their canopies and drive to the next village. It was not only fun but interesting. After a tour of the city we set off on another hike (aarrgghhh - feets don't fail me now). We started of at the Romanesque church of Cellole and after a while were forced to stop for our first picnic lunch prepared by our wonderful David and Robert. Each item was not only beautiful, but delicious, prepared with the freshest of ingredients bought hours before and capped off with three or four wines from the area. We all ate like pigs and enjoyed every morsel. Sadly, lunch was soon over and we had to trudge onward and finish our hike - another ten hilly, painful miles today. (Note - If I ever get my hands on the moron that signed us up for this trip I'll be on trial for murder . . . oh, wait- that would be me . . . nevermind). The next morning we drove to Badia Passignano which is a towered castle founded in 1049 by Benedictine monks. We are now in Chianti country. We toured the abbey (which is still in use) and got to see some restoration work being done. Another strenuous hike through vineyards and olive groves with a break for yet another wonderful lunch hiking to the village of Montefioralle. We stayed in the village of Lucarelli overnight and the next morning headed to the village of Radda from which we head off on yet another killer hike (are these people sadist or are we masochists?) and fantastic picnic. Overnight again in Lucarelli. This morning we travel to Monte Oliveto Maggiore, an ancient abbey where we have lunch and tour the cathedral. From here we drive to our final destination, Siena. We have the morning free to explore this Gothic city gathering for a delicious lunch. In the afternoon we had a guided tour of this beautiful city which included seeing the plaza where the Palio horse race has been run every year for centuries. The city is divided into 10 sectors, each sponsoring a different horse. Twice in the summer there is a fiercely competitive race of three laps around the piazza. The Sienese people live all year for these races and the rivalry between sectors is intense. Children are baptised in fonts with the emblem of their sector on it which aren't in the church. It's supposed to be quite a spectacle and the losers' disgrace and mourning unbelievable. The winner has to pay the losers and get only the coveted banner but to them that's better than the money. Along the way we stopped for a wine tasting and, believe it or not a vinegar tasting. I expected to sip vinegar but they served it on ice cream!!! It wasn't bad (and I don't even like vinegar). I have to say the highlights of our trip were the unexpected, unprogrammed stops. Lisa enjoys meeting people and was always stopping to talk to people along the way. One man was making miniature chairs and had some baby chickens. She stopped to speak with him and he took two of the little chicks out and spoke with us for some time. Another was a man who was an itinerant winemaker who was working in a small winery. The automated wine press had broken and he had to use the manual press. He told us how they made the wine and showed us all the equipment and storage vats. The most memorable was an 86 year old woman who has lived in the tiny village, in the same house all her life. We spoke with her for quite a while and gave her a tootsie pop and some candy. She was concerned that we would get lost and walked with us down a steep hill (which she would have to climb up to get home) and shook each of our hands. I'll never forget how rough her hand was from years of working. These experiences don't happen in large cities and on big tours. There's nothing like being with 'the people' and we are lucky to be able to do this kind of traveling. Finally I have to talk about the food. You don't know what 'real' Italian cooking is until you've eaten it in Italy. We're used to plates of limp pasta sitting in a pool of water with a glob of too much sauce perched on top. In Italy the pasta is cooked to perfection and drained almost dry with just enough sauce tossed onto the noodle to coat it. As they say in Italy "delizioso" - as I always say "slurp". It was worth every pound I gained. I surprised myself (and Dave) yesterday when I told him, in spite of all my bitching and complaining about the hikes, I would do it again.
GO T0 CHURCHILL
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PHOTOGRAPHS OF ITALY, 2000