Taco Loco
75 New St,
718-273-6404
In addition to tacos and tortas this restaurant whips up round sandwiches called cemitas. They're made with pan de pulque, a sweet egg bread dotted with sesame seeds and leavened with cactus beer. The sandwich can be made with chicken or pork, but I prefer milanesa, a pounded, crumbed, and deep-fried beefsteak wadded on the bread and topped with white cheese, avocado, cilantro, onions, and semi-dried red chiles that have the texture and sweetness of sun-dried tomatoes.
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Lobster Dock
29 Smith St.
718-934-6300
This reasonable facsimile of a Maine lobster pound is located in a white saltbox house right on Shell Creek, with a lighthouse and lobster skiffs out back. The whole steamed lobsters are excellent, served with drawn butter and decent fries. For duffers, there's a lobster roll for which you should request extra packets of mayo, and freshly shucked oysters and clams that can match Grand Central's Oyster Bar for freshness.
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Food Court
37 Jane St.
718-762-8787
The Village Mall is rather boring; not so, the food court, where 11 counters regale you with a broad range of noodles, soups, and dumplings in a Cantonese, Sichuan, Taiwanese, and Southeast Asian vein. Most unusual is Beggar Dish, which offers julienne strips of duck and pig variety meats like intestine and ear in addition to its namesake dish, and Taiwanese Food, which excels at deep-frying string beans.
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