"Geisha," the word itself
is probably
mispronounced as often as are
the
women it
identifies,
misunderstood. Pronounced "gay-sha,"
the
word
translates as "art person" or "person of
the
arts" and that is simply what geisha
are,
practitioners of arts that reach back in
time
more than three centuries.
Geisha are masters of those arts,
having
undergone rigorous training in
music, dance,
calligraphy, the tea
ceremony,
as well as
conversational
and social graces. Geisha
are skilled
story
tellers and, singers, as well
as
proficient accompanists on their
three-stringed shamisen.
The
geisha system had its beginning during
the
Tokugawa era,
in the 17th century, when Japan
was at
peace, isolated from the outside world
and when samurai and merchant had
time
and wealth
enough to indulge themselves
in the
pleasures of the "floating
world."
There was
then, as there is today, a
strong hint
of the exotic, of fantasy in
thbe very word, "geisha"
and the sound of
it
can still conjure up images
of a
time long past; a time when
when the
sounds of laughter and shamisen
drifted
from the tea houses into the
night
air as
samurai strutted down the
streets
of Edo.
The
first geisha who appeared at parties and
celebrations banging their drums, singing
songs
and telling funny stories were men;
gradually
however, women began appearing
to
challenge the male entertainers
and by
mid 17th century, female geisha had
attained
a dominance which
soon became their
monopoly.
The beauty, gentility, grace and skill
that
women brought to the geisha scene served
to
inspire countless musicians, poets
and artists
who sought to capture the
spirit and images
of the geisha's "willow
world."
In spite
of the modern transformation that
Japan
has
experienced in the last one hundred or
even fifty years,
tradition remains a strong, persistent
ingredient within the base of all that is
new.
So it is with the geisha who, like the
swordsmith
or kabuki actor or woodblock
artist or even the sushi
chef, must
undergo
a long and trying apprenticeship
before
she can
officially attain the status of "geisha."
In early times, girls began this
apprenticeship while
still pre teens; however,today the age
for
entering geisha training is
fifteen.


Fledgling
geisha are called "maiko" and their
dress,
hair stlyles and makeup are quite
different
from that of their "elder sisters."
Maiko
wear somewhat
brighter and showier kimono, bound at the
waist with a long
draping sash ("darari-no-obi") that
nearly
reaches the
ground, and for footwear,
distinctive high wooden clogs ("okobo").
Unique hair styles, hair ornaments and
stark white
facial makeup gives the maiko the
dream-like
quality of a porcelain
doll.Perhaps because
they still lack the
skills of their elder
sisters, the maikos'
appearance must rely more on outward
showiness
but, by the time they reach
their early
twenties,
diligent and successful maiko are
ready to
put aside their doll like
accouterments and
take up the subtler
shades
of kimono and
more sophisticated
demeanor
of "geisha."
Up until the end of the second World
War, geisha
were the trend setters of
high fashion and good
taste but with the
changes that have taken place
since
then, that role has
disappeared.
In the late
1970's, the number of registered geisha
fell to around 1,500 and today, there are
probably
fewer than a thousand women
practicing the
profession and lifestyle
of geisha.

In the tea houses
("ochaya") of Kyoto's Gion
and Pontocho
districts geisha perform and
entertain
their
guests who usually have a long
relationship
with the ochaya, as new customers
are
rarely
admitted without proper introduction.As
in times long past, when geisha
helped
to soothe the worries and cares
of
samurai and
merchant, the sounds of
shamisen
and song
that fill
today's ochaya are a haunting
reminder of tradition's
persistence.
Inside
the teahouse of Gion or Pontocho,
it is now perhaps the tired businessman
or
harried
politician who half fancies
himself
as the bold
samurai of yore whose cares
are eased and ego
lifted by the lovely,
gentle geisha who fills his
sake cup
and
sings only to him!
A somewhat
curious sidelight to this world
of geisha
was provided by a recent article
that
appeared in the travel
section of
my Sunday newspaper.The
half
page story related the success of more
than forty shops in Kyoto catering
to Western tourists
and Japanese women as well who pay
$100 to $350
to be made up and attired
as maiko or geisha. For
a slight
additional
fee, these "90 minute geisha" may
obtain photographs of themselves and
stroll
around a
nearby temple ground reveling
in the spectacle of
camera hounds
jostling to take their pictures.
More
than 70,000 patrons
each year avail themselves
of the
services of these "geisha studios"
contributing a not
insubstantial boon
to the Kyoto economy.
Although the ranks of
true geisha grow thinner
each year, and
fewer teenagers find such a
ritualized
and rigorous life
attractive, it would be
far too
presumptuous,
in light of their proven staying
power,
to predict the geisha's disappearance
in
the
near future. Geisha are a link with
the past
and
Japanese are reluctant to abandon such
ties.
If the number of paying customers at the
busy
"geisha studios" is any
indication,
geisha are
still
respected, imitated and even
admired for their
commitment to a way of life that
is admittedly
out of
tune with today's Japan.



It may well be that
geisha provide a comfortable reminder for
the human need to remember the way
things used to be. Women who pay a
handsome sum
to stroll the streets
of Kyoto in the guise of geisha
certainly
offer testimony to the fascination
and mystique
that these women who
"practice the arts" still
possess.
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