"Geisha," the word itself
is probably
mispronounced as often as are the
women it
identifies,
misunderstood. Pronounced "gay-sha,"
the word
translates as "art person" or "person of
the
arts" and that is simply what geisha are,
practitioners of arts that reach back in time
more than three centuries.
Geisha are masters of those arts,
having
undergone rigorous training in
music, dance,
calligraphy, the tea ceremony,
as well as
conversational
and social graces. Geisha
are skilled story
tellers and, singers, as well
as
proficient accompanists on their
three-stringed shamisen.The
geisha system had its beginning during the
Tokugawa era,
in the 17th century, when Japan
was at
peace, isolated from the outside world
and when samurai and merchant had time
and wealth enough to indulge themselves
in the pleasures of the "floating world."
There was then, as there is today, a strong hint
of the exotic, of fantasy in
the very word, "geisha"
and the sound of it
can still conjure up images
of a time long past; a time when
when the
sounds of laughter and shamisen
drifted
from the tea houses into the night
air as
samurai strutted down the streets
of Edo.
The first geisha who appeared at parties and
celebrations banging their drums, singing
songs
and telling funny stories were men;
gradually
however, women began appearing
to
challenge the male entertainers and by
mid 17th century, female geisha had
attained
a dominance which
soon became their
monopoly.
The beauty, gentility, grace and skill that
women brought to the geisha scene served
to
inspire countless musicians, poets
and artists
who sought to capture the
spirit and images
of the geisha's "willow
world."
In spite of the modern transformation that
Japan
has experienced in the last one hundred or
even fifty years, tradition remains a strong, persistent
ingredient within the base of all that is new.
So it is with the geisha who, like the
swordsmith
or kabuki actor or woodblock
artist or even the sushi
chef, must undergo
a long and trying apprenticeship
before she can officially attain the status of "geisha."
In early times, girls began this apprenticeship while
still pre teens; however,today the age
for
entering geisha training is fifteen.
Fledgling
geisha are called "maiko" and their dress,
hair stlyles and makeup are quite different
from that of their "elder sisters." Maiko wear somewhat brighter and showier kimono, bound at the waist with a long
sash ("darari-no-obi") that nearly reaches the ground,and for footwear,
distinctive high wooden clogs ("okobo").
Unique hair styles, hair ornaments and stark white
facial makeup gives the maiko the dream-like
quality of a porcelain doll. Perhaps because
they still lack the skills of their elder sisters, the maikos'
appearance must rely more on outward
showiness but, by the time they reach their early
twenties, diligent and successful maiko are
ready to put aside their doll like
accouterments and take up the subtler shades
of kimono and more sophisticated demeanor
of "geisha."
Up until the end of the second World
War, geisha
were the trend setters of
high fashion and good
taste but with the
changes that have taken place
since then, that role has disappeared.In the late
1970's, the number of registered geisha
fell to around 1,500 and today, there are
probably
fewer than a thousand women
practicing the
profession and lifestyle
of geisha.
In the tea houses ("ochaya") of Kyoto's Gion
and Pontocho
districts geisha perform and
entertain their
guests who usually have a long
relationship
with the ochaya, as new customers
are rarely
admitted without proper introduction.As
in times long past, when geisha
helped
to soothe the worries and cares of
samurai and
merchant, the sounds of shamisen and song that fill
today's ochaya are a haunting reminder of tradition's
persistence.
Inside the teahouse of Gion or Pontocho,
it is now perhaps the tired businessman or
harried
politician who half fancies himself
as the bold
samurai of yore whose cares
are eased and ego
lifted by the lovely,
gentle geisha who fills his
sake cup and
sings only to him!
A somewhat curious sidelight to this world
of geisha was provided by a recent article
that appeared in the travel
section of
my Sunday newspaper.The half
page story related the success of more
than forty shops in Kyoto catering to Western tourists
and Japanese women as well who pay $100 to $350
to be made up and attired
as maiko or geisha. For
a slight additional
fee, these "90 minute geisha" may
obtain photographs of themselves and stroll
around a
nearby temple ground reveling
in the spectacle of
camera hounds jostling to take their pictures. More
than 70,000 patrons each year avail themselves
of the
services of these "geisha studios"
contributing a not insubstantial boon
to the Kyoto economy.
Although the ranks of true geisha grow thinner
each year, and fewer teenagers find such a
ritualized and rigorous life attractive, it would be
far too presumptuous,
in light of their proven staying
power,
to predict the geisha's disappearance
in the
near future. Geisha are a link with the past
and Japanese are reluctant to abandon such
ties.
If the number of paying customers at the
busy
"geisha studios" is any indication, geisha are still
respected, imitated and even admired
for their
commitment to a way of life that is
admittedly
out of tune with today's Japan.
It may well be that geisha provide a comfortable
reminder
for the human need to remember the way things used to be. Women
who pay a handsome sum to stroll the streets
of Kyoto in
the guise of geisha certainly
offer testimony to the
fascination and mystique that these women
who "practice the arts" still
possess.
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